2005 Gold Bling Awards Selection Forecast: The new route southwest of the Blount Peak - THE KAZAKHSTAN ROUTE
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The 2005 Gold Blast Awards candidate list will be announced soon. The climbers Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov from Kazakhstan will undoubtedly be the favorites to be nominated, because earlier this year they successfully opened a new route on the Blount.
The Gold Blast Awards have been awarded to the Russian climbing team in the past two years (Nobuo's first summit in 2003 and Jannu's first summit in 2004). The winning climb has reached a very high degree of difficulty from a technical point of view, but no new route has been completed in the alpine way - a fact that has provoked great debate among proponents of "pure climbing". They all believe that this year's Golden Blast Award should be awarded to an alpine style climb, such as the new route completed by Americans Steve House and Vince Anderson on the Rupal Rock Wall in Nanga Parbat.
Pure Alpine way of climbing:
Although the Americans are highly prized, the Kazakhstani partner is fully qualified to compete with Steve and Vince. Denis and Serguey strictly adhered to the provisions of the Alpine climbing method during the climb of the Blount.
The two Kazakh climbers originally planned to join a larger Italian climbing team to achieve the summit goal. However, the Italians temporarily changed their minds and chose to climb the traditional route of the Bloat Peak (finally only at the top Give up when you are away.) After exiting the Italian team, the two Kazakhs decided to rely on their own strength to climb the southwestern wall of the Brolot Peak. As a result, for the next eight days, they opened up a new route on this unknown rock face without any prior preparation.
Campsite
Hybrid route, pure Alpine way of climbing
Climbing at high altitude:
Urubko was excited because of this climb. After returning to base camp, he said: “The climbing experience at high altitude is like a series of fantastic days. Everything is close to the limit: air, endurance and weather. But we can Don't care, just thinking about climbing.â€
After returning, Denis recalled to ExplorersWeb some of the technical details of the Broward summit.
Glaciers, ridges close to the summit, and 2,300 meters in the center of the rock:
The new route created by the Kazakhs is located on the southwestern wall of the Bloat Peak. The route starts at the glaciers at an altitude of 4,800 meters; the next thing to face is a steep ice-rock hybrid line extending from 5,500 meters to 7,800 meters above sea level - a rock wall with a vertical elevation of nearly 2,300 meters. To accomplish this, the climber only needs to pass a length of blade to climb the main peak of 8010 meters above sea level.
Denis and Serguey did not use oxygen cylinders to assist in breathing during the entire climb, and of course there were no pre-installed ropes, camps, and supplies for use.
The climb began on July 18, 2005. During the entire climb, the partner camped for six nights. Although they carried tents, they could actually lie down and rest only for two nights. At other times, because there is not enough space, the two can only sit there waiting for dawn dawn. Camp C1 is located 6,100 meters above sea level. Camp C6 (the last camp before the summit) is set at the top of the southwestern rock wall at an altitude of 7800. At the moment of the summit, the food they carried was exhausted and there was not enough fuel to quench the snow. During the descent after the summit, fatigue and hunger plagued the Kazakhs. Eventually they were forced to choose the seventh camp.
Climbers cleaning campsites at 6,500 meters
M6, 6B, A2 and high exposure:
The difficulty of the ice-rock hybrid line in the southwestern rock wall is about M6, and the slope of the entire rock wall is between 45o-70o. The route near the top edge is particularly difficult.
“The quality of the rock is very bad, but the structure is just the opposite.†Denis said. “Erosion on the surface of the route is not always ideal, which makes it sometimes difficult for climbers to adopt a reclining posture during the climb — which undoubtedly further increases the difficulty of climbing the route. Due to the long years of avalanche erosion. The rock in the upper part of the line has become extremely smooth. Under such circumstances, it is too difficult to make a difficult position on the rock's protection point,†Denis said. “Fortunately I once climbed with SimoneMoro in Europe. Some of the rocky routes - this is also the only experience I can refer to when setting difficulty levels for the new route to the Blount. "According to Denis's estimate, the difficulty of the new route is between 5C and 6B, plus 4 meters. Equipment climbing road (difficulty A2).
Bad weather:
It's time to talk about the weather. When the weather "window" opened, Denis and Serguey set off - in fact, the weather on the first day of the climb was really good. However, with the continuous progress of climbing, the weather conditions are gradually deteriorating. When they woke up on the fifth morning, they had to face bad weather and thick snow – this undoubtedly increased the chance of encountering an avalanche.
On the sixth day, the weather can only be described as "terrible," but Kazakhstanians still choose to hit the summit the next morning. Fortunately, the sun was good on the morning of July 25, and the sun's rays provided good visibility for their summit. However, when they were to withdraw, the weather began to deteriorate, and the oncoming winds, coldness, and gradually gathering clouds all made the decline difficult. The two climbers eventually chose to stay overnight at 7,200 meters. A few hours later, they continued to descend in thick fog and eventually returned to Base Camp before nightfall.
The only confirmed summit record:
Although the entire route was very difficult, two Kazakhstani climbers still tried to find a relatively reasonable route on the rock wall, thereby reducing unnecessary risks. "We try to find the least dangerous route," Urubko said.
Except for the "suspected summit" of an Iranian team, the two Kazakhstan climbers should be the only ones who have reached the main peak this year. According to reports, about 60 climbers gathered this year at the base camp of the Blount Peak, and most of them were hindered by persistent bad weather and excessive snow on the mountains.
DenisUrubko summit
Data link:
On July 25, 2005, Kazakhstan’s Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov successfully climbed the “Alps+New Route†on the southwestern wall of the Blount. In addition, no one successfully climbed the summit this year.
DenisUrubko is considered to be the top player in the climbing world today. Last year, he and Simone Moro opened a new route on the northern wall of Baruntse, and also went to Annapurna in the evening in harsh weather conditions. Denis has reached the 8000-meter summit nine times. On July 18, 2003, he had a summit with Broward. That was the traditional route. Once the French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille had serious symptoms in his lungs after the summit, and he could not act independently. Denis and the American Ed Viesturs set out overnight to join forces to save Lafaille's life.
Denis has summited many peaks and has sacrificed many times to help other dangerous climbers at the expense of his own summit, although many of them have never known him. This earned Denis a high reputation in the mountaineering community, although he did not climb all 14 peaks of the 8000-meter level - he could do it with his strength.
On June 9, 1957, Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck, and Fritz Wintersteller were first in Den Boloat. Taking into account the technical difficulty of its traditional route, Brolot has always been considered a relatively easy one among the 14 8000-level mountain peaks. But the data shows that it is more dangerous than the legend.
At present, about 300 climbers climbed Buloat. Its summit/death ratio is 7%, which is very close to 9% of Mount Everest.
Interestingly, the data shows the opposite of people's consistent views: that is, the Brolot is becoming more and more difficult to climb! As of 1990, the death rate for climbing the Brolot peak was 5%. However, from 1990 to 2004, the death rate had suddenly soared to 8.6%, almost twice the death rate of Mount Everest in the same period ( 4.4%).
In the past, the death rate of climbing Everest was as high as 37%. At that time, the data of Brolot was only 5%. Nowadays, the situation is just reversed. This no doubt reminds climbers that they can never belittle Broward.
Located 8051 meters above sea level, Brolot ranks 12th in the 14 peaks above 8000 meters. It is also the third highest peak in Karakoram. Bloat is located on the upper part of the Baltoro Glacier in Pakistan. The main road leading to this mountain passes through the middle of the Karakoram Mountains.
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