Mh brother is coming in! About double teams on ice. . . . Hass503cxi 21:39:30 1999-03-21
I've been exploring the experience of Glacier's double teaming. My personal experience so far is:
1, the book is written on the right! If it is not possible to cross the snow surface, dangerous terrain quickly passes through and so on.
2, dark seams and more areas must not be careless! I was "protected" by someone else with a pole in the snow. Of course, the progress is very tired, and it is more tiring to protect them according to prescribed technical actions, but the protection must be made clear. If Ma Qing is not a protection specification, I will be over! Regardless of how tired the teammates are to take the lives of the two men, they must stop and move forward.
3, the dark seam must be cleared out, there are conditions to insert the sign, the reason is very clear - who is also saying that the situation is not a good time. Most of the accidents occurred at the time of the descent. A little snow in the mountains could have buried everything.
4. When you jump over those "not wide or narrow" ice seams, you must be clear about the ice structure opposite. Sometimes the opposite is the snow and ice "pond bridge", so good to jump! At this time, one should pay attention to the protection of teammates. Secondly, we must scrutinize the self-protection ropes. Do not wrap them around or mix them. Otherwise, there is no danger of balance when they go down!
5, do not walk below the ice tower in some areas. These places are inaccessible. The structural stress of the ice is very fragile. There may be a few tons of heavy things on the head that may not be untouchable.
The other thing is to choose the line. Everyone knows that the wrong route can directly lead to the failure of the entire plan.
Another: We have 15 meters long ropes, each with a large lock, a small lock, an ascending device, a descender, a curved handle, and a straight one, plus a pack of Marlboro! :-)
The protection of the glacier's marching group - mh 09:30:07 1999-03-22
From my experience, it seems that every region in the world where the glaciers are developed and the mountainous regions are developed have their own set of glacial protection and protection techniques. These technologies are generally similar. The technical details of each area vary according to the environment. (But these sections often show their value in the process of technical climbing that focuses on light weight and speed.) Americans use the technology basically closed at Andy Selters's Glacier Travel and Crevass Rescue.
Http://ASIN/0898862507/qid%3D922059725/002-3720565-0353218 This book is very detailed, from the glacier knowledge to the equipping of technical equipment. Very helpful for beginners. But my feeling is that the ambulance techniques taught in this book (and most of the American mountaineering courses taught) are complicated. This is probably related to the Americans' habit of designing a myriad of specialized equipment for what they do. (Look at the way they snoring and the kitchen can understand. Often give people the feeling of "technology is not enough equipment to get together") I personally prefer the technology of New Zealand climbers. 4. The glacier in the main cut off of New Zealand's South Island is abnormally developed. Climbing there without effective and effective glaciers is almost impossible. It is no accident that New Zealand climbers are so active in Himalayan. To write out the entire set of technologies so that inexperienced people can catch drugs according to their side, they must have a few major articles, and they must have plans. I don't know how to teach at home. Presumably our country also has a set of experiences based on its own situation. And these experiences and internationally accepted technologies will not be much worse, and may be more suitable for the situation in the region. So for the time being, I will only talk about some of the "points" I know and exchange with other colleagues. More than technical pressure. Stones from other hills, can learn.
Now hass503cxi's posts to talk about. See original
Http://cn15.sina.com.cn/cgi-bin/mountainforum/viewmessage.pl?_id=579
> Everything written in the book is correct! If you cannot cross the snow,
What does "crosscut" mean?
> I was being “protected†by someone else using a pole with a foot in the snow.
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