If you have been immersed in watches for many years, you are certainly not new to the three questions, the perpetual calendar, and the tourbillon. These three are called the three major technologies in the watch industry. Some people often think that if these functions are available on the watch, the price is definitely expensive, is this really the case? Today we come to re-understand these three complex functions.
Tourbillon
The tourbillon is a watch speed controller invented by Mr. Breguet in 1795 and still in use today. This is also one of the reasons why Breguet is irreplaceable in the history of watchmaking culture. It was applied to pocket watches at the beginning of the invention , In order to resist the error caused by the gravity on the mechanical parts of the watch escapement system.
Ordinary mechanical watches, due to the influence of spring tightness, metal fatigue, and gravity, have large errors; the tourbillon governor is the only one that is not affected by these, and the annual error is less than 1 second, and the only one that can be achieved Observatory-level mechanical watch structure.
Today's tourbillon is widely used in watches. In fact, for watches, the true role of the tourbillon is already very small. However, as a representative of the top watchmaking technology, it is still sought after by most watch fans, and it can also allow major brands to show superb watchmaking technology. After all, there are not many brands that can hold this process!
Perpetual calendar
Perpetual calendar watches do not mean that they can run for ten thousand years without any error. In fact, they need to be adjusted every 100 years. Some people think that the perpetual calendar is the simplest of the three major functions. Why is it so expensive? Think about it, the ordinary weekday calendar, you must manually adjust the date when encountering large and small months, otherwise you will encounter an embarrassing scene that is clearly May 1st, but the watch also shows April 31st.
The perpetual calendar of mechanical watches can be said to be the most subtle combination of gears, cams and levers. Through a series of mechanical combinations, perpetual calendar watches can recognize big and small months and leap years in ordinary years. Tune once every century.
To make a perpetual calendar watch requires a lot of machine parts, and most of the machine parts are shaped parts, which must be hand-made. The extremely complicated manufacturing process also determines the scarcity of perpetual calendar watches. Even today with the development of technology, the perpetual calendar watch has also dropped significantly, but it is still a valuable item owned by a few people.
Three questions
The minute repeater is a three-reed watch. The three striking springs have different sounds, which can distinguish the time of "hour", "engrave" and "minute", which is the result of the application of acoustics and dynamics. It was originally a watch for people to know the time according to the type and number of times the watch sounded without looking at the watch in the dark. Generally speaking, when reporting low tones, mid-to-high tones are reported and high tones are reported.
With the popularity of luminous watches, the practicality of minute repeaters has greatly decreased. Luminous watches are more practical and simple, and the cost is more cost-effective. There is no need to get repeaters. The current repeaters are the same as tourbillons. It is a platform for major brands to show off their skills and prove their strength.
Judging the quality of a minute repeater, the most important thing is the timbre, the cheap minute repeater, the sound of the timekeeping is prolonged and muddy, and the top-level minute repeater of the million level, the sound is crisp and clear, and the size is clear. Can be addictive at any time and anywhere.
Only entry-level watches are cost-effective, and collectors who are willing to spend hundreds of thousands or millions to buy these complex-function watches are more of a sentiment.
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